Samur-en-Auxois

Wild rain over night and again this morning - not a lot of enthusiasm to rise early and get underway. So it ended up as a very slow start to the day- isn't that what we are suppose to do! 

In leaving the aniseed capital of France, Flavigny, we realised  just how high above the Burgundy countryside we had climbed. Just down the road is where Big Julie (Caesar) defeated the Gallic  tribes under the leadership of Vercingetorix and placed Gaul (France) under Roman rule. 

Our main goal today was to locate some LPG to fill our gas cylinder which ran out overnight - your's truly was out changing to our reserve cylinders at a very early hour!  It is amazing - we knew that it would have been getting low but no where along the route we have taken in the last week was there a service station that carried LPG. Found three stations in Avallon would you believe! 

But on our way we had to stop at the very scenic town of Samur-en-Auxois. There is a legend about that Semur was built by Hercules on his way back from Spain. Perhaps it wasn't his buildings we were looking at today but they were certainly from an earlier era. Semur is situated on the top of a pink granite spur with a river flowing below. It has a healthy amount of cobbled stone streets lined with medieval houses and shops. The older half-timbered properties have been joined by more recent properties with characteristic faded shutters and wrought iron balconies. 

The walking trail  around Semur takes you on a course that showcases the picturesque nature of the town. Like numerous medieval towns war and revolution played havoc with their look over time. If it wasn't wars of religion or a hundred year war between the French, the Burgundies and the English, then it was the revolution that finished the job - and that was before we entered the twentieth century!  Only four remaining towers and a few bits of ramparts are left standing from earlier times. And in the  church evidence is everywhere of the defacement during the revolutionary period. Nevertheless, Semur is a delightful place to spend a few hours - even if it rains!

The Armancon River with the Prisoner Tower and town in the background. 

 Cobblestone roads around Semur. 

Looking back toward the Barbican and city gate. 

 Outside the town gate. 

More views towards the town. 

Defacement of art work in the church. 

We later drove on to Avallon, filled with LPG and groceries, and then located our aire for our overnight stop.  A few other motorhomers turned up as did the rain again!  

Looking towards Avallon - we were in for a downpour!

Fontenay Abbey

Fontenay Abbey was our main destination today. We had this UNESCO site circled in our atlas for a number of years but each time passing this way we, for some reason, have failed to include it on our itinerary. We were very pleasantly surprised by our visit. 

Fontenay Abbey - a very serene and peaceful place. 

The day started out being much cooler  after a heavy shower over night. We were quite pleased with this as it started to cool the van a little.  It was also market day in Noyers - had it always been Wednesday over the centuries?  Noyers became important because of its location with salt and corn markets being held at regular intervals during the Middle Ages. Today it was cheese, sausage, fruit and veg, and 'bollywood' clothing! Nothing to catch our eye so we departed this 'beau' village. 

 The Wednesday market in Noyers. 

 

The 18th century lavoir we checked out this morning in Noyers. 

The drive to Fontenay Abbey, in the Côte-d'Or region of Burgundy, took a us along the pleasant Armancon River Valley and the Canal de Bourgogne.  The approach to the Abbey gave us a feeling of seclusion, and what was hidden behind the external wall was a pleasant surprise. 

 An aerial view of Fontenay Abbey (photo from billboard). 

The Abbey has been through tumultuous times in history with it being sold off as a property of the state during the French Revolution. Fortunately, it was used as an industrial site which meant the buildings were not pulled down. It was later bought by a banker in 1906 and he commenced the extensive restoration of the Abbey. 

Founded in 1118,  Fontenay Abbey was a great centre of learning and of technical advancement. The Forge building was the first metallurgical factory in Europe and also the first use of an hydraulic hammer. 

 The forge and trout pond. 

 At the heart of the technological revolution in Europe. 

 The Abbey Church. 

 The garden and the dormitory. 

 Abbey and other buildings. 

 The pond that supplied the Duke of Burgundy with trout. 

The trip to Fontenay Abbey was well worth the detour. We had lunch there before heading further south to Flavigny sur Ozerain, the home of "The Anis de Flavigny " - Flavigny aniseed. This famous sweet comes from this medieval hilltop town and has been been made in the Abbey for three centuries following an age old recipe. They consist of an aniseed coated in   raspberry, jasmine, coffee, or every flavour you could think of. The best description could be what we know today as tick-tacs. 

 

 Flavigny Aniseed. 

We wandered around the village and found some interesting bits and pieces!  Flavigny is another of the hundreds of medieval villages dotted around France - again, quaint, rustic and interesting.  

 These little guys and gals carved in the church pews caught our eye!

 

The cat as a boot scraper. 

 The medieval gate to the village of Flavigny.